Queen of Pearls’ set to dazzle at September HK Fair

The driving force behind the Ella Gafter New York and Ellagem jewellery brands, the artist produces only jewels that are painstakingly handmade in Italy. Her creative talent has repeatedly been recognised in the rarefied world of haute joaillerie. In 2001, Ella’s corsage brooch was one of a handful of contemporary pieces that was included in the “Pearls” exhibition at the American Museum of Natural History in New York. The platinum brooch, a stylised floral branch with a butterfly, is set with 10 gem-quality South Sea pearls, 8.38 carats of diamonds, frosted crystals and yellow sapphires. Ella’s signature poetic grace was also showcased in her corsage pin set with six South Sea pearls, platinum ivy leaves with diamonds and a butterfly with a yellow sapphire body. The brooch was one of the stunning pieces presented at the “White Magic” exhibition organised by Paspaley at the Cooper Hewitt Design Museum in New York in 2005.

A perfect foil to Ella’s creative genius is her daughter and business partner, Harvard-educated Talila, who manages Ellagem from their Fifth Avenue salon. Together, the two are launching Ellagem at the International Premier Pavilion of the September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair – the ideal launch pad for one of New York’s most exciting and prestigious jewellery brands. In an interview with JNA, Ella and Talila talk about pearls, the Ellagem woman and the Asian luxury market.

JNA: What made you decide to take part in the September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair?

Talila: The September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair is now recognised worldwide as a magnet for the highest-quality exhibitors and visitors, and for good reason: the fast-developing Asian markets combined with the millennia-old sophisticated taste in that region attract the finest-quality goods. It is a very exciting prospect to be part of that dynamic.

JNA: Please give us at least a couple of examples of the exciting pearl jewellery pieces that you will be launching at the show.

Ella: My current obsession lies with pearl bracelets. I exploit fully the range of possibilities afforded to my fantasy by different pearl groupings. I have bracelets that illustrate precisely how different shapes and colourings not only inspire, but really impose different designs: everyone can see from my bracelet designs that one could not possibly put one set of pearls into another setting and vice versa.

The difficulty in creating these pieces lies first of all in matching the pearls in terms of top lustre, skin and homogenous colour. And then, the bracelets have to be flexible to feel luxurious, but they must not be remotely flimsy in feel. They must move on the arm, but not too much. It is all a question of balance.